Once the chain, freewheel and crankset have been cleaned and re-conditioned, then it is time for re-installation on the bike. The freewheel has its threads smeared with anti-seize compound and then is carefully hand threaded back onto the rear hub. If you are unfamiliar with freewheels, be very careful to get a true engagement of the hub threads and the freewheel to avoid cross threading the freewheel and then ruining the hub. Gently hand turn the freewheel until it stops at the end of its travel and is fully seated near the hub flange. (You are not fully finished with this process, there is a following step later in the next instalment.)
The crankset bottom bracket has been re-installed with the axle ends protruding and the bearings adjusted for smooth, non-binding rotation. Slip the crankset drive side with its chainrings back on the drive side axle end and press until there is no further movement. Do the same on the non-drive side. Then, add the bolt and washer to each crank arm and tighten down. Add the plastic Stronglight dust caps and tighten them using a Loonie (Canadian $1 coin) or a plastic ruler to avoid damaging the plastic cap. (A video showing removal and re-installation can be found here.) Some people lube the square axle’s faces prior to assembly to ease seating of the crank arm and others do not, fearing that the axle will slide too far down the axle faces thus seating the crankset too deeply on the axle and, eventually, prematurely wearing out the crank arm socket. I install crank arms dry.
Once the freewheel was back on the rear Maillard hub, the front and rear derailleurs re-attached to the frame and the bottom bracket and crankset re-installed, then the time arrives for the re-installation of the Sedisport chain. Be sure that the chain is fed over the rear sprocket and through the rear derailleur’s pulleys in the form shown in the diagram, in case you had not taken detailed “before” photos.
Once the chain is threaded properly, drape the chain through the front derailleur cage and over the edge of the bottom bracket rather than on the inner chainwheel (although you can do that.) This allows the chain to be slack and makes matching the two ends of the chain back together much easier. Then, use the chain breaker to push the link pin back into the opposite chain plate. Wriggle the link up and down and side to side until it moves freely. Then pull the chain forward off the bottom bracket shell and set it on the inner chainring. A detailed video is here if you have only used chains with reusable links prior to this rebuild. The final result should look like this but minus the pedals:
With the drive train re-assembled, the next step in the process is to be sure that the front derailleur cage outer face is parallel to the face of the outer chain ring and about 2 to 3 mm above the large chainring’s teeth. Then the derailleur control wires are carefully routed over the plastic bottom bracket guide and through the outer housing for the rear derailleur. Each wire then needs to be pulled taut using pliers and then tightened down under the 8 mm retention bolts on the front and rear derailleurs.
Fine tuning the throw of the derailleurs and the setting of the limit screws will finish the drivetrain setup but before that can be done the pedals need to be re-built and re-installed on the crank arms.